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One of Brazil’s most colorful and vibrant cities, Salvador Bahia, is a culturally rich location known as the Black capital of Latin America. The city has become a well-known hub for Afro-Brazilian culture. With nearly 3 million inhabitants, 80% of whom are of African descent, Salvador Bahia has one of the largest concentrations of Afro-descendants outside of Africa. 

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Labeled the Black Rome, the city has transformed from its dark past to create a unique blend of cultures unlike any other place. 

Brief History of Salvador Bahia

Salvador Bahia was the first capital of Brazil between 1549 and 1763; now, it is the capital of the Bahia region, located in the northeast part of Brazil. 

As a major port city, it became the first slave market in the New World in 1558. Enslaved Africans were brutally brought over from all parts of Africa to work primarily on sugarcane plantations. Established by the Portuguese, the slave trade continued until 1888. During slavery, many enslaved Africans lived without any connection to their homeland. Stripped of their culture and identity, they were forced to assimilate into Portuguese customs and speak a new language. Enslaved people had to create a new culture to survive. 

But slavery isn’t the complete story for the people of Salvador Bahia. Over the years, people of African descent have been actively writing a new story.

How Drums Strengthen the Ties to Africa

Salvador Bahia is consistently weaving African traditions into its culture. The customs and practices in Salvador Bahia are not a direct replication of African culture. However, the connection to Africa and honoring that ancestry is undeniable. 

One of the most notable connections to Africa is the drums. In many African traditions, drums serve a specific purpose. Hand drums are played throughout the year during birth, death, peace, war, planting, and harvesting. It is a way for African people to celebrate, mourn, and communicate. In Salvador Bahia, the drums hold similar significance. At any given moment, you can find people of all ages playing a variety of drum rhythms, many of which are from pre-colonial times. 

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While drumming is an integral part of the culture, two groups of musicians have utilized drumming to create a social movement. The first group is Oldum, which came into existence in 1979. They became well known because they collaborated with Michael Jackson in his music video for the song “They Don’t Really Care about Us.” 

Beyond making music, this group is a vital part of the community. As a non-profit organization, they teach music and dance classes to underprivileged children. They also actively work against racial discrimination by uplifting the voices of Afro-Brazilians. 

Alongside this group, another band of drummers is impacting the Afro-Brazilian scene. Banda Didá is a drumming group of Black women who are breaking stereotypes and empowering women across the region. 

Banda Didá is known to be the first all-women group, emerging in an era where drumming was exclusively for men. With every drum beat and note played by these women, they are beating against the old beliefs that drumming was too dangerous for women. Many people believed that the physical demands of drumming, which include carrying a large drum and repetitive movement, would weaken women’s ability to give birth. Additionally, playing in the streets late at night at festivals and events was considered unsafe for women. 

However, whenever a Banda Didá member straps on their surdos or bass drum to their shoulders or waist, they make a statement. Their fierce and intentional drumbeats dismiss the former gender roles while paying tribute to their African ancestry. 

Along with music, Samba and Capoeira are other ways the people of Salvador Bahia celebrate African culture.

Preserving Heritage through Religion

Since enslaved Africans were not allowed to practice their religions when brought to Brazil, they had to create their method of praise. Thus, Candomblé, a religion based on African gods, was formed.

Several festivals and rituals occur yearly to praise Orishas, or orixas in Portuguese, the various spirits of Candomblé. Yoruba, the West African language, is used during rituals, along with drums and spiritual dances. 

Ceremonies often occur by the sea or in churches, where women dress in all white and seek to commune with various spirits and deities. These rituals are spiritual endeavors that transcend the conscious and the subconscious mind. 

Visiting Salvador Bahia

Over the years, Afro-tourism, tourism focused on African culture, has risen in Salvador Bahia. Visitors can immerse themselves in Brazil’s inviting Afro-Brazilian culture through these tours.

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Another way to experience Afro-Brazilian culture is through the yearly festivals. The most well-known event is Carnival, where the streets are flooded with women and men dressed in colorful clothing and the days consist of non-stop dancing and partying. 

In addition to the music and dance, another impressive aspect of Salvador Bahia is its Renaissance architecture, carefully preserved in the Pelourinho district, where enslaved people were brought and sold. Pelourinho is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The best time to visit is between December and March, after the rainy season.